The Church Of Santa Maria Della Scala In Trastevere Awaits

The somewhat hidden church of Santa Maria Della Scala in Trastevere is a gem of Rome that is worth a visit, but don’t forget the nearby ancient pharmacy.

If you are in the Trastevere district in Rome and you are hunting for some hidden gems, then I have a suggestion for you. The Chiesa Santa Maria della Scala is not only a great place to stop to escape the Roman summer heat, it is also a beautiful church that is next to the Antica Spezieria, which is the first pharmacy in Rome. If you add in a lunch at one of the restaurants that surround this piazza, you can plan an amazing half-day adventure without much walking.

What Is Santa Maria Della Scala In English?

Literally, Santa Maria della Scala translates to Holy Mary of the Stair. This somewhat peculiar name is derived from the history of an image of the Virgin Mary believed to be miraculous, which was placed on a staircase between some huts. When I walked around this neighborhood a bit, I noticed quite a few restaurants, B&Bs and roads that adopted the “Scala” moniker, so if you decide to walk around Trastevere and start to notice that word being used a lot, that is why.

What Is The History Of Santa Maria In Trastevere?

According to tradition, the history of Santa Maria della Scala all began when a little girl born mute regained her speech thanks to her mother’s prayers to an image of the Virgin Mary that was placed on a staircase between some modest houses. The staircase soon became a destination for an ever growing number of pilgrims in search of healing. The popularity grew so much that Pope Clement VIII was convinced to have it built in 1592.

At the request of the Discalced Carmelites, the first church and convent were built at the end of the 16th century. The façade of the church was completed later, with more statues and other artwork to follow. While the infamous stairs no longer exist, the image that was believed to be miraculous is still preserved in the Chapel of the Madonna della Scala.

Where Is “The Death Of The Virgin” By Caravaggio?

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, known simply as Caravaggio, was commissioned to paint the altar piece for the chapel, which he finished in 1605 and was called “The Death Of The Virgin”, but it was rejected because of his realistic style of painting. The members of the Carmalite order believed the depiction was too human looking and to make matters worse, there was a rumor that Caravaggio had used a drowned courtesan as his model. Today, “The Death of the Virgin” has found its permanent home at the Louvre Museum in Paris.

Santa Maria Della Scala And Vietnam

On my recent visit to this church, I was surprised to find a space dedicated to the memory of Francis-Xavier Nguyễn Văn Thuận, who was a Vietnamese Cardinal in the Catholic Church. After the fall of Saigon, the Cardinal was imprisoned for 13 years for his religious beliefs. He was released, but still under house arrest, and in 1991 he was allowed to visit Rome and never returned. He was made a Cardinal Deacon of Santa Maria della Scala and died of cancer in 2002. In 2007, the church began the beatification process for the Cardinal.

What Is The Oldest Pharmacy In Rome?

Adjoining the church is the monastery famous for being home to the pharmacy of the papal court in the 17th century. The furnishings and instruments of the time are still preserved today and you are able to schedule a tour for a reasonable €5. I have more detailed information about this pharmacy in a recent article about the Antica Spezieria.

The ancient apothecary is located on the first floor of the convent of the Discalced Carmelites, above the modern pharmacy still operating today.

In the adjacent liquor laboratory, dating back to the first half of the nineteenth century, the instruments used for distillation are preserved, the production of which the convent has, sadly, suspended in recent years. You can buy some bottles of alcohol with their branding, but it is manufactured elsewhere.

How Can I Visit Santa Maria Della Scala?

If you are already in Trastevere, this church should be easy to find. Unfortunately, I was coming from the center of Rome (Centro Storico) and public transportation only got me close enough for a 10-15 minute walk. The address is: Piazza della Scala, 23 and the church is open from 10:00 AM until 1:00 PM and from 4:00 PM until 7:00 PM.

One option is to take the #87 bus to the Rinascimento stop and walk about 15 minutes, or you can try the #3L tram that will get you to the Trastevere/Min. P.Istruzione stop with a 10 minute walk from there. 

While you are walking, don’t forget to notice all the inviting restaurants in Trastevere and plan to extend your visit to the church with a delicious meal. This district is known for its amazing restaurant, some touristy, some not, but definitely worth a try.

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